ABOUT

In a defiant act called RETURN TO SENDER, Kampala-based BUZIGAHILL redesigns second-hand clothes from Europe, the USA and Asia, and redistributes them to their origins in the Global North.

BUZIGAHILL and RETURN TO SENDER are a direct response to the impacts of second-hand clothing on Uganda’s textile industry. RETURN TO SENDER represents BUZIGAHILL's ability to participate in the global contexts of art, fashion and activism by creating critical and desirable products. This is a collective refusal to remain stuck at the end of the second-hand supply chain.

2024

2023

2022

2021

2018

1972

1960s

1954

1903

Colonial Era: The Arrival of Cotton, Missionaries, Religion, and Colonialism

62 bags of cotton seeds arrived in Uganda from the UK on a ship. K. Borup, an industrial missionary, distributed these bags of cotton seeds across Uganda for planting. The aim of the cotton cash crop was to supply raw materials to British textile mills and to kick-start a cash-based currency economy in Uganda. By 1945, Uganda’s cotton output was second only to India in the British Empire.  Uganda maintained this position until the late 90s.

The Formalization of Uganda’s Clothing and Textile Industry.

Recognizing Uganda's potential as a leading cotton producer, the British colonial administration established Nytil in Jinja in 1954. This marked a significant milestone in Uganda's cotton, clothing, and textile industry.

Nytil, formerly known as Nyanza Textile Industries Limited, was a vertically integrated textile manufacturing plant designed to process locally grown cotton into finished products, creating value-add jobs for Ugandans.

How many other mills existed? Do We have access to names of other mills?  Why are we only mentioning Nytil? 

The Establishment of Nytil - Uganda’s first and oldest textile mill

Nytil was established in Jinja, Uganda, in 1954 by the British colonial government. During its formative years, Nytil quickly became Uganda's largest textile mill, playing a crucial role in the country's textile and garment industry. The mill thrived in the 1960s and 1970s, a period marked by significant growth and development in Uganda's manufacturing sector.

Nytil's success during this era was due to its ability to produce high-quality fabrics and garments for both local and regional markets from Uganda’s thriving cotton yields. However, the textile industry faced considerable challenges in the following decades, particularly during the political and economic upheavals of the 1980s and 1990s.

Despite these difficulties, Nytil adapted and continued its operations, albeit under changing circumstances. Today, Nytil is one of the only two mills that yarn Ugandan cotton, which makes it a key player in the local textile sector. It continues to produce fabrics and garments, mostly for government institutions and other private organisations.

Uganda’s Independence

On October 9, 1962, Uganda began a new chapter of self-governance after gaining independence from British colonial rule.

Cotton played a significant role in the country's economy. As a primary export commodity, the cash crop provided revenue and employment for many Ugandans.

The clothing and textile industry supported farmers and rural communities, contributing to the economic development of related sectors such as ginning and textile manufacturing.

Despite the challenges following independence, including political instability and economic fluctuations, cotton continued to be an essential part of Uganda's agricultural landscape.

The Arrival of Second-hand Clothes

Second-hand clothes, locally known as mivumba, have been present in Uganda since the British colonial period.

Introduced by Christian missionaries as charitable donations for the poor, these garments were initially met with a degree of disdain from the general populace. However, they began to gain popularity as a temporary alternative when local textile and clothing production collapsed under Idi Amin’s regime.

Over time, second-hand clothes became the dominant clothing option for Ugandans, replacing the diverse textile and fashion choices available in the 1960s. Today, more than 80 percent of clothing purchases in Uganda are second-hand, highlighting the dominant role that mivumba now plays in the country's textile landscape.

Iddi Amin’s Expulsion of Asians and Disruption of Uganda’s Textile and Clothing Industry.

On August 4, 1972, President Idi Amin issued a decree expelling approximately 80,000 Asians from Uganda, giving them 90 days to leave the country. Amin justified this action by accusing the Asian community of economic sabotage and exploitation of the local population, claiming that this move would return economic control to indigenous Ugandans.

Asians had managed a substantial portion of Uganda's commercial sector, particularly in the textile and clothing industry. Their expertise and technical skills were crucial for operating complex industrial facilities such as Nytil. With their sudden departure, Ugandans who replaced them often lacked the experience necessary to effectively manage and operate these facilities.

As a result, many textile mills and factories either shut down or operated at minimal capacity. This significantly weakened the Ugandan economy. The entry of imported second-hand clothing in the 1980s and 1990s exacerbated the economic struggles, as the growing popularity of these clothes further impeded the recovery and growth of the local textile industry.

Bobby Kolade

Bobby Kolade was born in Sudan to Nigerian-German parents and grew up between Kampala and Lagos. He holds a masters in Fashion Design from the Academy of Arts Berlin Weissensee and has professional experience at Maison Margiela and Balenciaga in Paris.

In 2018, Bobby returned to Kampala with a goal of building a sustainable Ugandan brand, with Ugandan cotton.

He soon discovered that Uganda's clothing and textile industry had suffered greatly since the political and economic challenges of the 1970s. After four years of research, it was apparent that innovation and intervention was a necessary first step in reviving Uganda's clothing and textile industry, which led to BUZIGAHILL. 

Bobby Kolade is a passionate gardener.

East Africa Community’s Attempted Ban On Second-hand Clothes

The East African Community (EAC) proposed a ban on the importation of second-hand clothes in March 2016 as part of a broader strategy to revive and protect the local textile and leather industries. The goal was to encourage local production using locally sourced materials from within member countries: Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, and Burundi. The ban, scheduled for implementation by 2019, was in argument that imported second-hand clothes are inexpensive, making it difficult for local textile factories and self-employed tailors to compete. 

The United States cautioned East African Community leaders that their plan to ban the import of used clothes violated the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), an agreement that grants Sub-Saharan African countries with duty-free access to the U.S. market.

In February 2018. The US State Department, gave the East African leaders an ultimatum of one week to reverse the decision or face heavy penalties. The US argued that the ban violated the AGOA. 

While other countries withdrew their bans, Rwanda continued with the ban and faced partial suspension of AGOA benefits. Uganda and Tanzania chose to drop the ban and maintain their trade privileges under AGOA.

This scenario is a stark example that underscores a broader pattern of exploitation where powerful nations in the Global North use economic leverage and trade agreements to dictate the terms of commerce in the global South. By threatening to withdraw trade benefits, the U.S. effectively coerced East African nations to continue importing second-hand clothes, thereby stifling local industries' growth and perpetuating economic dependency.

Owino Market

Owino Market is Uganda’s largest second-hand clothing market. Also known as St. Balikudembe Market, it began in 1791 as an alternative wholesale market for farmers' produce, with the aim of supplying other markets in Kampala and surrounding areas.

Over the years, Owino Market has grown to become the largest open market in East Africa, covering 17 acres of land in central Kampala. The market is particularly renowned for its second-hand clothing, a trade that has significantly impacted Uganda's local textile industry and is a key part of Kampala's economic and social landscape.

Stalls, where upcyclers redesign second-hand clothes into all kinds of overalls, baby clothes, and patchwork outfits, have made Owino market a central hub for Uganda’s creative force.

Costume Design - Soraya Lutangu Bonaventure - Taking Care of God - Tour

BUZIGAHILL designed costumes for the Europe tour of Soraya Lutangu Bonaventure’s hybrid performance ‘Taking Care of God’. 

In collaboration with Kingdom Gospel Club, a Congolese cappella group, Soraya combines church music with club sounds, blending the dynamics of sacred and secular music. She engages the viewers in a conversation about the perception of spirituality, as well as the search for trance through rhythms. 

Watch a snippet of the performance on YouTube here

Vogue Business & Google 2021 Summit

Vogue Business senior sustainability editor Rachel Cernansky moderated a Vogue Business panel featuring Bobby Kolade, Michael Sadowski, The  RealReal’s Director of Sustainability, and climate consultant James Rogers. The discussion focused on the rise of fashion resale platforms and their potential to lessen the industry’s environmental impact by prolonging the lifespan of garments.

Watch here

Vintage or Violence - Podcast -[Kampala]

July
Kampala

Hosted by Bobby Kolade and Nikissi Serumaga, this captivating podcast, created, recorded, and produced in the heart of Kampala, is a first-of-its-kind interrogation about the country’s textile past. The original six-part limited series looks into the complexities of the second-hand clothing supply chain, questioning whether it is the aid it promised to be – or a new frontier of colonialism and control in Africa. 

Through insightful interviews with a range of local stakeholders, the podcast offers a platform to engage in critical discussions. 

Listen here or wherever you find podcasts.

Konsum in der Kunst - Exhibition [Biberach an der Riss]

November
Biberach an der Riss

This exhibition explored the concept of consumption, questioning the effects of mass consumption and its socio-political, economic, and ecological implications. The display of RETURN TO SENDER fit into this curation as a powerful example of African-based solutions addressing the crisis caused by overconsumption in the Global North and its devastating environmental impact on the Global South.

Royal College of Arts - The Regenerative Fashion Hub - Speaker [London]

18 October
London

Bobby Kolade was a speaker at the launch of the Regenerative Fashion Hub, alongside John Thackara and Orsola de Castro. The afternoon discussion explored topics around sustainability and mental, human, social, and economic wellbeing in the context of textile production and consumption.

Global Fashion Summit - Panel Talk [Copenhagen]

7th - 8th June
Copenhagen

On the topic of "Subverting Fashion’s Historical Exclusion," Bobby Kolade challenged the audience to consider not only where clothes are made but also where they ultimately end up. In a panel discussion with Dr. Marsha Dickson, co-founder of the Better Buying Institute, and moderated by Moussa Mchangama, co-founder of In Futurum, Bobby critiqued the fast fashion industry, highlighting the issue of ultra-cheap, single-use T-shirts that are discarded in Kenya, Ghana, and Uganda, clogging landfills and washing up on beaches.

LinkedIn Post

PRODUCTION

April
RETURN TO SENDER is produced with care and patience by our team of creative tailors at our studio in Kampala. We source bales of second-hand garments from clothing importers and individual pieces from vendors at Owino Market, one of the biggest second-hand clothing hubs in the world. Each piece is cleaned and carefully studied before undergoing a transformational production process that utilises complex artisanal and industrial techniques. We build on each garment’s original heritage and enrich it with a new design identity. Each piece is one of a kind and branded with an individual passport label indicating its origin, composition, production period, and a unique passport number.

BUZIGAHILL -DROP01- [Kampala]

On a hill in Kampala, nestled under the royal palms that float over Bobby Kolade’s living room, BUZIGAHILL released its first collection,  DROP01, after four years of background work.

Handmade by a team of young Ugandans and modeled by close friends, DROP 01 launched via a special feature in The Guardian. This marked the beginning of RETURN TO SENDER’s movement, meticulously studying, redesigning,  deconstructing, and reconstructing second-hand clothes into luxury, one-of-a-kind pieces.

BACKGROUND

The once prosperous Ugandan textile industry has suffered significantly since the 1970s and has not recovered from the shocks of market liberalisation and globalisation to be able to create jobs, textiles and clothing for the current population of 48.8 million. Cotton remains Uganda's third most important cash crop. However, 95% of all harvested fibre is exported for further processing, thereby missing out on opportunities for value-add jobs. Local fashion has quickly been replaced by imports of second-hand clothes and cheap, synthetic knock-offs from the Global North, which together are the leading source of all textile goods in the country: It is estimated that 80% of all clothing purchases in Uganda are second-hand.


There are only two remaining textile mills in the country that spin locally grown cotton to produce fabrics. They do not have the capacity to clothe 48.8 million Ugandans – and certainly do not produce fabrics diverse enough to be used by contemporary Ugandan fashion designers. As a result, designers either work with textiles imported from Turkey and China, or use materials upcycled from second-hand clothes. Locally produced garments cannot compete against the low prices and diversity that second-hand clothing offers – these remain a threat to local economies and the environment.

Sharjah Architecture Triennial - Installation and Live Performance - [Sharjah]

11th November2023 - 10th March 2024
Sharjah

BUZIGAHILL’a production studio in Kampala was carefully recreated at the Al Qasimiyah School in Sharjah, and for the duration of the opening week, the entire production team was flown in to perform the defiant act of RETURN TO SENDER. Bales of second-hand clothes were specifically sourced from a sorting facility in one of Sharjah’s Free Zones.

RETURN TO SENDER as a performance was an immersive performance: Visitors were invited to experience the team’s labour-intensive production processes first-hand. Some tried their hands at macramé knotting, some tried on the pieces being made and many shared their experiences with second-hand clothing in their parts of the world.

Official Merch Partner: Sharjah Architecture Triennial 2023 [Sharjah]

November
Sharjah

BUZIGAHILL is proud to have produced official merchandise for the Sharjah Architecture Triennial 02. It took three defiant months to source and dismantle 1700 pairs of jeans from Owino Market in Kampala and produce 1000 tote bags and 500 bucket hats. 

Global merchandise production for events—from sustainability summits to the NFL—contributes significantly to the global second-hand clothing trade. Cheap event merchandise is in itself a form of single-use fast fashion. Upcycling, redesigning or repurposing are ideas that are often challenged for their price point and scalability.

Obroni Wau October - Fashion Festival [Accra]

October
Accra

Allies from Chile, Kenya, France, USA, Nigeria, and South Africa gathered to witness the world’s biggest second-hand market celebrate a culture of reuse, repair, upcycling, and remanufacturing.

A cohort of 30 upcycle fashion designers showcased their best on the runway, demonstrating one of the many creative ways Ghana is addressing the excess of imported used clothing. Kantamanto is the largest second-hand market in the world, receiving and processing 15 million garments weekly. 

OWO is powered by The Or Foundation.

RTS05 Release party - HAUS [London]

June
London

RTS05 dropped at  

In between house plants and vinyl records, 

RTS05 was launched at Brixton’s favourite vinyl, plant and coffee shop, HAUS. 

BUZIGAHILL was surrounded by friends, pots, shots, and coffee, as we danced away to sets by Josh Caffé, Leala Rain and DJ Mapengo’s sets. If you stop by, don’t forget to ask for Simone’s life-changing mushroom tea.

Selfridges X Lagos Fashion Week - Pop-up [London]

May
London

BUZIGAHILL, alongside a carefully curated selection of other brands like AAKS, Andrea Iyamah, Christie Brown, and  Lisa Folawiyo were selected to display the rising global recognition and admiration for African craftsmanship and design at the ‘Woven Threads’ pop-up.

Fashion For Good - Exhibition [Amsterdam]

17 - 16 October
Amsterdam

During the exhibition of Knowing Cotton Otherwise, BUZIGAHILL  displayed RETURN TO SENDER, which was featured and available for purchase in the museum's ground floor shop.

What Design Can Do Festival - Amsterdam

Keynote, July 5th

Bobby Kolade highlighted the disparity and discrimination in the movement of raw materials, clothing waste and humans between the Global North and Global South.

202030 - The Berlin Fashion Summit Edition #8 - Berlin

Speaker, 2nd July

In a conversation with Fatima Njoya, Bobby Kolade critiques the disproportionate profits that European countries extract from the second-hand clothing industry. He highlights a loophole in trade laws designed by the EU and the World Trade Organisation which place import tax burdens on upcycled clothes reentering Europe from Uganda.

An Evening With Bobby Kolade - Conversation [Rotterdam]

20th June
Rotterdam

In conversation with curator Louse Bennetts, Bobby Kolade takes the audience through BUZIGAHILL’s complex RETURN TO SENDER design process, with a step-by-step illustration of the making of a maxi dress. 

Watch here

Pitti Uomo - S|STYLE Showcase [Italy]

11- 14 June
Italy


BUZIGAHILL made history as the first Ugandan brand to showcase at Pitti Uomo’s S|Style platform, with a look created using materials from Kering’s Material Innovation Lab in collaboration with Positive Materials.

State Of Fashion 2024 Biennale - Ties That Bind - Exhibition [Arnhem]

16th - 30th May
Arnhem

RTS at the State of Fashion Biennale next to brands like NKWO and Luna Del Pinal was a dream.

SAT02 x University of Sharjah: Zero Waste Masterclass [Sharjah]

1st - 8th March
Sharjah

BUZIGAHILL’s exhibition at the Sharjah Architectural Triennial was reactivated as a workshop for students from the University of Sharjah’s Fashion Department, led by Bobby Kolade.

Make Good Symposium - Talk [London]

March

In his keynote presentation, Bobby Kolade asks why Ugandans are selling fast-fashion waste from the Global North instead of weaving the cotton grown on their land. 

Watch the keynote here

Kering Material Innovation Lab - Workshop [Milan]

March
Milan

BUZIGAHILL was invited, alongside brands from Peru, China, Chile, Ireland, Greece, and Italy, to Kering’s Material Innovation Lab in preparation for the S|STYLE showcase at Pitti Uomo, to explore advancements in sustainable luxury textile production and recycling.

2024

What Design Can Do Festival - Amsterdam

Keynote, July 5th

Bobby Kolade highlighted the disparity and discrimination in the movement of raw materials, clothing waste and humans between the Global North and Global South.

202030 - The Berlin Fashion Summit Edition #8 - Berlin

Speaker, 2nd July

In a conversation with Fatima Njoya, Bobby Kolade critiques the disproportionate profits that European countries extract from the second-hand clothing industry. He highlights a loophole in trade laws designed by the EU and the World Trade Organisation which place import tax burdens on upcycled clothes reentering Europe from Uganda.

An Evening With Bobby Kolade - Conversation [Rotterdam]

20th June
Rotterdam

In conversation with curator Louse Bennetts, Bobby Kolade takes the audience through BUZIGAHILL’s complex RETURN TO SENDER design process, with a step-by-step illustration of the making of a maxi dress. 

Watch here

Pitti Uomo - S|STYLE Showcase [Italy]

11- 14 June
Italy


BUZIGAHILL made history as the first Ugandan brand to showcase at Pitti Uomo’s S|Style platform, with a look created using materials from Kering’s Material Innovation Lab in collaboration with Positive Materials.

State Of Fashion 2024 Biennale - Ties That Bind - Exhibition [Arnhem]

16th - 30th May
Arnhem

RTS at the State of Fashion Biennale next to brands like NKWO and Luna Del Pinal was a dream.

SAT02 x University of Sharjah: Zero Waste Masterclass [Sharjah]

1st - 8th March
Sharjah

BUZIGAHILL’s exhibition at the Sharjah Architectural Triennial was reactivated as a workshop for students from the University of Sharjah’s Fashion Department, led by Bobby Kolade.

Make Good Symposium - Talk [London]

March

In his keynote presentation, Bobby Kolade asks why Ugandans are selling fast-fashion waste from the Global North instead of weaving the cotton grown on their land. 

Watch the keynote here

Kering Material Innovation Lab - Workshop [Milan]

March
Milan

BUZIGAHILL was invited, alongside brands from Peru, China, Chile, Ireland, Greece, and Italy, to Kering’s Material Innovation Lab in preparation for the S|STYLE showcase at Pitti Uomo, to explore advancements in sustainable luxury textile production and recycling.

2023

Sharjah Architecture Triennial - Installation and Live Performance - [Sharjah]

11th November2023 - 10th March 2024
Sharjah

BUZIGAHILL’a production studio in Kampala was carefully recreated at the Al Qasimiyah School in Sharjah, and for the duration of the opening week, the entire production team was flown in to perform the defiant act of RETURN TO SENDER. Bales of second-hand clothes were specifically sourced from a sorting facility in one of Sharjah’s Free Zones.

RETURN TO SENDER as a performance was an immersive performance: Visitors were invited to experience the team’s labour-intensive production processes first-hand. Some tried their hands at macramé knotting, some tried on the pieces being made and many shared their experiences with second-hand clothing in their parts of the world.

Official Merch Partner: Sharjah Architecture Triennial 2023 [Sharjah]

November
Sharjah

BUZIGAHILL is proud to have produced official merchandise for the Sharjah Architecture Triennial 02. It took three defiant months to source and dismantle 1700 pairs of jeans from Owino Market in Kampala and produce 1000 tote bags and 500 bucket hats. 

Global merchandise production for events—from sustainability summits to the NFL—contributes significantly to the global second-hand clothing trade. Cheap event merchandise is in itself a form of single-use fast fashion. Upcycling, redesigning or repurposing are ideas that are often challenged for their price point and scalability.

Obroni Wau October - Fashion Festival [Accra]

October
Accra

Allies from Chile, Kenya, France, USA, Nigeria, and South Africa gathered to witness the world’s biggest second-hand market celebrate a culture of reuse, repair, upcycling, and remanufacturing.

A cohort of 30 upcycle fashion designers showcased their best on the runway, demonstrating one of the many creative ways Ghana is addressing the excess of imported used clothing. Kantamanto is the largest second-hand market in the world, receiving and processing 15 million garments weekly. 

OWO is powered by The Or Foundation.

RTS05 Release party - HAUS [London]

June
London

RTS05 dropped at  

In between house plants and vinyl records, 

RTS05 was launched at Brixton’s favourite vinyl, plant and coffee shop, HAUS. 

BUZIGAHILL was surrounded by friends, pots, shots, and coffee, as we danced away to sets by Josh Caffé, Leala Rain and DJ Mapengo’s sets. If you stop by, don’t forget to ask for Simone’s life-changing mushroom tea.

Selfridges X Lagos Fashion Week - Pop-up [London]

May
London

BUZIGAHILL, alongside a carefully curated selection of other brands like AAKS, Andrea Iyamah, Christie Brown, and  Lisa Folawiyo were selected to display the rising global recognition and admiration for African craftsmanship and design at the ‘Woven Threads’ pop-up.

Fashion For Good - Exhibition [Amsterdam]

17 - 16 October
Amsterdam

During the exhibition of Knowing Cotton Otherwise, BUZIGAHILL  displayed RETURN TO SENDER, which was featured and available for purchase in the museum's ground floor shop.

2022

Konsum in der Kunst - Exhibition [Biberach an der Riss]

November
Biberach an der Riss

This exhibition explored the concept of consumption, questioning the effects of mass consumption and its socio-political, economic, and ecological implications. The display of RETURN TO SENDER fit into this curation as a powerful example of African-based solutions addressing the crisis caused by overconsumption in the Global North and its devastating environmental impact on the Global South.

Royal College of Arts - The Regenerative Fashion Hub - Speaker [London]

18 October
London

Bobby Kolade was a speaker at the launch of the Regenerative Fashion Hub, alongside John Thackara and Orsola de Castro. The afternoon discussion explored topics around sustainability and mental, human, social, and economic wellbeing in the context of textile production and consumption.

Global Fashion Summit - Panel Talk [Copenhagen]

7th - 8th June
Copenhagen

On the topic of "Subverting Fashion’s Historical Exclusion," Bobby Kolade challenged the audience to consider not only where clothes are made but also where they ultimately end up. In a panel discussion with Dr. Marsha Dickson, co-founder of the Better Buying Institute, and moderated by Moussa Mchangama, co-founder of In Futurum, Bobby critiqued the fast fashion industry, highlighting the issue of ultra-cheap, single-use T-shirts that are discarded in Kenya, Ghana, and Uganda, clogging landfills and washing up on beaches.

LinkedIn Post

PRODUCTION

April
RETURN TO SENDER is produced with care and patience by our team of creative tailors at our studio in Kampala. We source bales of second-hand garments from clothing importers and individual pieces from vendors at Owino Market, one of the biggest second-hand clothing hubs in the world. Each piece is cleaned and carefully studied before undergoing a transformational production process that utilises complex artisanal and industrial techniques. We build on each garment’s original heritage and enrich it with a new design identity. Each piece is one of a kind and branded with an individual passport label indicating its origin, composition, production period, and a unique passport number.

BUZIGAHILL -DROP01- [Kampala]

On a hill in Kampala, nestled under the royal palms that float over Bobby Kolade’s living room, BUZIGAHILL released its first collection,  DROP01, after four years of background work.

Handmade by a team of young Ugandans and modeled by close friends, DROP 01 launched via a special feature in The Guardian. This marked the beginning of RETURN TO SENDER’s movement, meticulously studying, redesigning,  deconstructing, and reconstructing second-hand clothes into luxury, one-of-a-kind pieces.

BACKGROUND

The once prosperous Ugandan textile industry has suffered significantly since the 1970s and has not recovered from the shocks of market liberalisation and globalisation to be able to create jobs, textiles and clothing for the current population of 48.8 million. Cotton remains Uganda's third most important cash crop. However, 95% of all harvested fibre is exported for further processing, thereby missing out on opportunities for value-add jobs. Local fashion has quickly been replaced by imports of second-hand clothes and cheap, synthetic knock-offs from the Global North, which together are the leading source of all textile goods in the country: It is estimated that 80% of all clothing purchases in Uganda are second-hand.


There are only two remaining textile mills in the country that spin locally grown cotton to produce fabrics. They do not have the capacity to clothe 48.8 million Ugandans – and certainly do not produce fabrics diverse enough to be used by contemporary Ugandan fashion designers. As a result, designers either work with textiles imported from Turkey and China, or use materials upcycled from second-hand clothes. Locally produced garments cannot compete against the low prices and diversity that second-hand clothing offers – these remain a threat to local economies and the environment.

2021

Costume Design - Soraya Lutangu Bonaventure - Taking Care of God - Tour

BUZIGAHILL designed costumes for the Europe tour of Soraya Lutangu Bonaventure’s hybrid performance ‘Taking Care of God’. 

In collaboration with Kingdom Gospel Club, a Congolese cappella group, Soraya combines church music with club sounds, blending the dynamics of sacred and secular music. She engages the viewers in a conversation about the perception of spirituality, as well as the search for trance through rhythms. 

Watch a snippet of the performance on YouTube here

Vogue Business & Google 2021 Summit

Vogue Business senior sustainability editor Rachel Cernansky moderated a Vogue Business panel featuring Bobby Kolade, Michael Sadowski, The  RealReal’s Director of Sustainability, and climate consultant James Rogers. The discussion focused on the rise of fashion resale platforms and their potential to lessen the industry’s environmental impact by prolonging the lifespan of garments.

Watch here

Vintage or Violence - Podcast -[Kampala]

July
Kampala

Hosted by Bobby Kolade and Nikissi Serumaga, this captivating podcast, created, recorded, and produced in the heart of Kampala, is a first-of-its-kind interrogation about the country’s textile past. The original six-part limited series looks into the complexities of the second-hand clothing supply chain, questioning whether it is the aid it promised to be – or a new frontier of colonialism and control in Africa. 

Through insightful interviews with a range of local stakeholders, the podcast offers a platform to engage in critical discussions. 

Listen here or wherever you find podcasts.

2018

Bobby Kolade

Bobby Kolade was born in Sudan to Nigerian-German parents and grew up between Kampala and Lagos. He holds a masters in Fashion Design from the Academy of Arts Berlin Weissensee and has professional experience at Maison Margiela and Balenciaga in Paris.

In 2018, Bobby returned to Kampala with a goal of building a sustainable Ugandan brand, with Ugandan cotton.

He soon discovered that Uganda's clothing and textile industry had suffered greatly since the political and economic challenges of the 1970s. After four years of research, it was apparent that innovation and intervention was a necessary first step in reviving Uganda's clothing and textile industry, which led to BUZIGAHILL. 

Bobby Kolade is a passionate gardener.

East Africa Community’s Attempted Ban On Second-hand Clothes

The East African Community (EAC) proposed a ban on the importation of second-hand clothes in March 2016 as part of a broader strategy to revive and protect the local textile and leather industries. The goal was to encourage local production using locally sourced materials from within member countries: Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, and Burundi. The ban, scheduled for implementation by 2019, was in argument that imported second-hand clothes are inexpensive, making it difficult for local textile factories and self-employed tailors to compete. 

The United States cautioned East African Community leaders that their plan to ban the import of used clothes violated the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), an agreement that grants Sub-Saharan African countries with duty-free access to the U.S. market.

In February 2018. The US State Department, gave the East African leaders an ultimatum of one week to reverse the decision or face heavy penalties. The US argued that the ban violated the AGOA. 

While other countries withdrew their bans, Rwanda continued with the ban and faced partial suspension of AGOA benefits. Uganda and Tanzania chose to drop the ban and maintain their trade privileges under AGOA.

This scenario is a stark example that underscores a broader pattern of exploitation where powerful nations in the Global North use economic leverage and trade agreements to dictate the terms of commerce in the global South. By threatening to withdraw trade benefits, the U.S. effectively coerced East African nations to continue importing second-hand clothes, thereby stifling local industries' growth and perpetuating economic dependency.

Owino Market

Owino Market is Uganda’s largest second-hand clothing market. Also known as St. Balikudembe Market, it began in 1791 as an alternative wholesale market for farmers' produce, with the aim of supplying other markets in Kampala and surrounding areas.

Over the years, Owino Market has grown to become the largest open market in East Africa, covering 17 acres of land in central Kampala. The market is particularly renowned for its second-hand clothing, a trade that has significantly impacted Uganda's local textile industry and is a key part of Kampala's economic and social landscape.

Stalls, where upcyclers redesign second-hand clothes into all kinds of overalls, baby clothes, and patchwork outfits, have made Owino market a central hub for Uganda’s creative force.

1972

The Arrival of Second-hand Clothes

Second-hand clothes, locally known as mivumba, have been present in Uganda since the British colonial period.

Introduced by Christian missionaries as charitable donations for the poor, these garments were initially met with a degree of disdain from the general populace. However, they began to gain popularity as a temporary alternative when local textile and clothing production collapsed under Idi Amin’s regime.

Over time, second-hand clothes became the dominant clothing option for Ugandans, replacing the diverse textile and fashion choices available in the 1960s. Today, more than 80 percent of clothing purchases in Uganda are second-hand, highlighting the dominant role that mivumba now plays in the country's textile landscape.

Iddi Amin’s Expulsion of Asians and Disruption of Uganda’s Textile and Clothing Industry.

On August 4, 1972, President Idi Amin issued a decree expelling approximately 80,000 Asians from Uganda, giving them 90 days to leave the country. Amin justified this action by accusing the Asian community of economic sabotage and exploitation of the local population, claiming that this move would return economic control to indigenous Ugandans.

Asians had managed a substantial portion of Uganda's commercial sector, particularly in the textile and clothing industry. Their expertise and technical skills were crucial for operating complex industrial facilities such as Nytil. With their sudden departure, Ugandans who replaced them often lacked the experience necessary to effectively manage and operate these facilities.

As a result, many textile mills and factories either shut down or operated at minimal capacity. This significantly weakened the Ugandan economy. The entry of imported second-hand clothing in the 1980s and 1990s exacerbated the economic struggles, as the growing popularity of these clothes further impeded the recovery and growth of the local textile industry.

1960s

The Establishment of Nytil - Uganda’s first and oldest textile mill

Nytil was established in Jinja, Uganda, in 1954 by the British colonial government. During its formative years, Nytil quickly became Uganda's largest textile mill, playing a crucial role in the country's textile and garment industry. The mill thrived in the 1960s and 1970s, a period marked by significant growth and development in Uganda's manufacturing sector.

Nytil's success during this era was due to its ability to produce high-quality fabrics and garments for both local and regional markets from Uganda’s thriving cotton yields. However, the textile industry faced considerable challenges in the following decades, particularly during the political and economic upheavals of the 1980s and 1990s.

Despite these difficulties, Nytil adapted and continued its operations, albeit under changing circumstances. Today, Nytil is one of the only two mills that yarn Ugandan cotton, which makes it a key player in the local textile sector. It continues to produce fabrics and garments, mostly for government institutions and other private organisations.

Uganda’s Independence

On October 9, 1962, Uganda began a new chapter of self-governance after gaining independence from British colonial rule.

Cotton played a significant role in the country's economy. As a primary export commodity, the cash crop provided revenue and employment for many Ugandans.

The clothing and textile industry supported farmers and rural communities, contributing to the economic development of related sectors such as ginning and textile manufacturing.

Despite the challenges following independence, including political instability and economic fluctuations, cotton continued to be an essential part of Uganda's agricultural landscape.

1954

The Formalization of Uganda’s Clothing and Textile Industry.

Recognizing Uganda's potential as a leading cotton producer, the British colonial administration established Nytil in Jinja in 1954. This marked a significant milestone in Uganda's cotton, clothing, and textile industry.

Nytil, formerly known as Nyanza Textile Industries Limited, was a vertically integrated textile manufacturing plant designed to process locally grown cotton into finished products, creating value-add jobs for Ugandans.

How many other mills existed? Do We have access to names of other mills?  Why are we only mentioning Nytil? 

1903

Colonial Era: The Arrival of Cotton, Missionaries, Religion, and Colonialism

62 bags of cotton seeds arrived in Uganda from the UK on a ship. K. Borup, an industrial missionary, distributed these bags of cotton seeds across Uganda for planting. The aim of the cotton cash crop was to supply raw materials to British textile mills and to kick-start a cash-based currency economy in Uganda. By 1945, Uganda’s cotton output was second only to India in the British Empire.  Uganda maintained this position until the late 90s.